The fish at Caletta

Caletta has a small fishing fleet and a seafront with four or five trattorie that built their name on the day's catch. There is no long menu: there is what came in, and it changes with the wind.

The local dish is cacciucco, the Livorno fish stew made with five kinds of fish and bread rubbed with garlic, drier here than in the city. Spring brings the oily fish, autumn the squid and cuttlefish.

Thirty-five euros a head is realistic for a starter, a first course and half a litre of wine. On summer evenings it is worth booking: there are few tables outside and everybody wants one.